Palladio Hotel & Spa
The Palladio Hotel & Spa is a former convent on the tiny island of Giudecca. It overlooks St. Marc’s square, boasts its own private stretch of canal quayside, historic gardens and a deeply relaxing spa. Think classic, personal luxury.
Hotel Bauer Palladio, Giudecca 33, 30133, Venice.
It’s the oldest café-bar on St. Marc’s, go at least once early in the morning to sip one of the most delicious caffe lattes in the city before anyone is on the square, or at sunset for an early-evening Spritz to the strains of violin music.
With windows packed with skull rings, Moor’s head brooches, ivory cameos and vintage pieces from the 1930s and 1970s, this Venice jeweler dates back to 1866 and is part of the fabric of the city. You’re in good company, Orson Welles, Jean Cocteau and Diana Vreeland have all visited.
San Marco 1295, Venice.
Not only for the signature peach Bellini, but for the classic decor that has remained unchanged since the bar opened, the famous frosted glass windows and the regulars. A legendary spot, one not to be missed.
Harry’s Bar, 1323 Calle Vallaresso, San Marco, Venice.
Deep in the heart of Venice just a few minutes’ walk from Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari basilica and the Scuola Grande de San Rocco, Oltre il Giardino occupies two floors in a grand house enclosed by a verdant garden. With just 12 rooms overlooking olive trees and magnolia bushes, this quiet hotel belonged to Mahler’s widow until the 1920s. Heavy gilt and thick velvet curtains are out, as owner Alessandra Arduini prefers discreet refinement to overblown Venetian baroque. An exquisite hidden gem of a hotel, in a teeming city.
On the Fondamenta della Sensa canalside in Cannaragio, this local bistro is worth going off the beaten track for. Think light, crispy fried fish, scampi tagliatelle, fried zucchini flowers, ink squid and polenta, finished with almond cake and amaretti ice cream, in a stripped-back decor with exposed beams, wooden tables and retro tiling. Grab a table outside if you can, it’s one restaurant in Venice that we promise you won’t tire of.
La Cantina (Campo San Felice, San Felice)
Harry’s Dolci ( Fondamente San Biagio 773, Giudecca)
Taverna San Trovaso (Dosoduro 1016)
Osteria Al Portego
Venetians call these wine bars bacaros, where they might stop toprendere un ombra, or literally, have a drink and a chat. To soak up the wine, they also offer an array of different cicchetti, mini sandwiches at €1 each, on crusty fresh bread with fillings including cheese, ham, cured meats and baccala mantecata, a local dried salt cod paste. Tucked away under an arch, Al Portego is a local favorite.
Al Portego, Calle della Malvesia 6015, Castello, Venice.
Bar All’Arco Di Pinto Francesco (Calle dell’Arco 436 San Polo)
Cantine del Vino (Gia Schiavi, Fondamenta Nani 922, Dorsoduro)
Trattoria Ca’D’Oro – devant l’embarcadère Ca’ D’Oro
Cantine Do ori (Sotoportego dei do Mori 429, San Polo)
Opposite the Rialto, this fish bar is one of the busiest in the city, so make sure you get there before midday. Grab a stool and try the crudi – Italian sashimis – and super fresh, seafood-based cicchetti.
Pronto Pesce Pronto (Pescheria, Rialto 319) – in the market next to the Rialto.
This excellent family patisserie is a temple to all things sweet. With galani and frittelle – Venetian doughnuts filled with cream, apple or sabayon typically sold at Carnival time – the best praline cream choux puffs in the city, melt-in-the-mouth meringues and cream meringata, you won’t be disappointed. Neither are the Venetians, who come here in droves.
Dorsoduro 3764, Calle San Pantalon, Venice.
Rosa Salva (Sestiere di San Marco, 950)
For some of the best ice cream in Venice, with a view out over Giudecca and the sweeping arcs left behind the boats as they cross the bay.
Gelati Da Nico, Zattere 922, Dorsoduro, Venice
Photos VOGUE Paris
Maud Charmoy, translated by Kate Matthams-Spencer