Acme the former Noho spot that for years pitched faux Southern food, has reinvented itself with the help of Jean Marc Houmard and Mads Refslund, one of the founders of Copenhagen’s famed NomaWhile Houmard’s restaurants haven’t exactly been known for their kitchen prowess, his reinvention of Acme represents what is perhaps his most serious investment in food. It also acts as a handy indication of just how fashionable good food has become.

 The dining room.

 A view of the restaurant from its entryway. A large lounge space is downstairs.

 Waiters wear jeans, crisp white shirts and skinny ties.

His menu delivers an easy introduction to the avant-garde cuisine of Northern Europe, unpretentious and moderately priced. His food is undeniably creative, but not so cerebral you can’t sit back and enjoy it.

Pearl barley with clams and scallops invites comparisons to a bowl of sea foam.

 Mr. Refslund roasts sunchokes in a bed of hay, then sets the hay on fire. The blackened sunchokes are served with melted Gruyère and winter truffles.

 Chicken breast in a giblet sauce with fingerling potatoes, topped with fried eggs.

 One of the desserts, chewy dried pears strewn around a mulch of frozen wheatgrass juice.

 Beer and bread porridge, another dessert.

Mads Refslund signed on with Acme after a chance encounter with owner Jean-Marc Houmard during a vacation in New York. He abandoned plans for a new restaurant in Copenhagen to focus on his stateside debut, but still spends time in Denmark, where he’s been shooting a reality show on which he teaches Danish inmates how to cook.

9 Great Jones St between Broadway and Lafayette St ( 212-203-212). Subway: B, D, F, M to Broadway–Lafayette St; 6 to Bleecker St. Mon–Thu, Sun 6–11pm; Fri, Sat 6pm–midnight. Average main course: $25.